Wildlife of the San Juan Islands and the Salish Sea

The San Juan Islands are home and host to a variety of magnificent wildlife. Some make their homes here year round, others seasonally, still others only infrequently. One never forgets their first whale encounter. Yet even for those of us who call the Salish Sea home and see these creatures often, it never fails to inspire a sense of awe. This is a gallery, a small sampling of some of the creatures you are likely to see from the deck of Diminuendo. Although sightings are never certain, we’ve learned when and where various animals are likely to be seen. We 100% guarantee that you might see whales! The photos you’ll find here are not of professional quality. Most were taken with inexpensive digital cameras or cell phones. But we hope they will inspire you to join us aboard and create your own memories. Maybe you’ll catch some great photos of your own!

Orcas (Killer Whales)

The orca, or killer whale is the most revered of all of the denizens of the deep found in the waters of Pacific Northwest. Many native tribes refer to them as “black fish” and honor them as the spirits of their ancestors. Of course they are not fish at all and interestingly, the killer whale is not a whale, but in fact the world’s largest species of dolphin. They are a highly intelligent and social animal. Family groups or “pods” are usually led my a senior female; theirs is a matriarchal  society. There are two distinct populations of orcas found here, the transients and the southern residents. The transients, which prey primarily on marine mammals such as seals, sea lions, dolphins, porpoises, and whales are thriving. The southern residents, comprised of J, K, and L pods however are in peril. Their primary prey, the chinook salmon are in dwindling supply. Countless generations of orcas have learned and perfected a hunting technique specifically to target this fish. But with pollution, habitat depletion, and over fishing, there are just not enough chinook to sustain the population of orcas. A contributing factor is marine vessel traffic. The underwater noise created by an ever increasing number of ships and boats interferes with their ability to hunt using echo location. In the presence of plentiful other fish, the residents are starving. Although steps are being made to mitigate the threats, it is feared that it will be too little too late. Click HERE to see them in action.

Humpback Whales

Humpback whales are another frequent visitor in our waters. They employ a variety of techniques to hunt their prey such as herring. Instead of teeth, humpbacks have huge feather-like baleen plates in their mouths with which they filter out small fish and other prey. In deep water, they sometimes employ a “bubble net” technique. Using echo location, they find a school of fish. One whale dives and emits a stream of bubbles as it circles the fish from below. This corrals the fish into an ever smaller area. Then together, all of the whales rise up through the middle of the school, scooping huge quantities of water and fish into their gaping maws. With their tongues, they squeeze out the water through their baleen plates and gulp down the fish. Their coordination is astounding! When bubble netting, each member of a group will always rise in the same position relative to one another. In shallower water or when hunting alone they employ other techniques.

Humpbacks are known to put on quite a show by breaching, fluking, finning, or spy-hopping. They seem to pay no notice to boats in their midst as they go about their business. It is an incredible thrill when a whale that dwarfs your boat approaches close. And if you ever smell their breath, you’ll wish you hadn’t!

Minke Whales

The smallest member of the baleen whale is the minke whale. They too frequent these waters. We’ve noticed that when a large group of sea gulls are gathered and actively fishing, the minkes will sometimes go after the same school of fish as the gulls. Click HERE to see for yourself.

Porpoises and Dolphins

An encounter with Dall’s porpoises is the highlight of any cruise when they appear. They love nothing better than to ride the bow wave of passing boats, eliciting squeals of delight from all aboard. At times they are so close you could almost touch them. The Dall’s porpoise is one of the world’s fastest marine mammals. You’d never know it to look at them due to their rather pudgy shape. Their speed serves them well in escaping the jaws of transient orcas who would love to have them for a nice snack. Click HERE to join the fun!

Harbor porpoises are the smaller cousins of the Dall’s porpoises. We see them just about every day but they are notoriously hard to photograph due to their shy nature. We often spot them in tide rips and over falls or areas where the currents converge.

On occasion, we encounter Pacific White Sided dolphins. They too love to ride a bow wave. But unlike the Dall’s, they are sleek and streamlined in appearance with beautiful coloring and markings.

Seals, Sea Lions, and Otters

Harbor seals are likely to be one of the first critters you’ll see after getting under way. You’ll see their heads pop up and look at you. Later, you’ll see them basking in the sun on rocks along the way. They are generally a mottled gray in color with much lighter colored pups. Their numbers have exploded in recent years, nearing maximum sustainable numbers. True seals can be distinguished from the much larger sea lions by their lack of external ears and the fact that they are unable to use their hind flippers as legs. Instead, they undulate their bodies in an almost comical way to get around on shore. They’re kind of cute!

Click HERE to see one in fishing in Friday Harbor!

Steller sea lions are often seen on or around a few reefs and rocks along the way. These guys are not cute! Males can be up to eleven feet long and weigh over a ton. So large are they that they can be seen from a considerable distance. Sea Lions are considered eared seals. Able to fully articulate their hind flippers, they are much more nimble on land than their smaller cousins. And in the water, they are truly acrobatic! Steller sea lions are somewhat golden or reddish in color.

Although more common in the south Puget Sound region, California sea lions Are also seen in the San Juans occasionally. They are slightly smaller than the Stellers and are dark brown or gray in color. They’re agile enough to launch themselves up onto docks or buoys to rest.

 

 

 

 

 

 

It’s not uncommon to spot a raft or a romp of river otters. These are not to be confused with sea otters which are not found in the area. These playful critters are a lot of fun to watch as they frolic in the water or ashore.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Birds of the islands

Perhaps the most impressive birds you’re likely encounter are our national symbol, the bald eagle. You’ll see them soaring along shores or perched atop tall trees. as often as not, a murder of crows will be pestering them mercilessly.

You’ll also usually see great blue herons wading the shallows atop their spindly legs, occasionally pausing to snatch a fish from the water with its rapier-like beak. Though not as common, you’ll sometimes see ospreys. Fifty years ago, it was rare to see any of these magnificent birds. All were threatened with extinction due to the widespread use of the insecticide DDT, which found its way into the water and into the fish on which these birds prey. The DDT caused the bird’s egg shells to be thin and brittle, causing most eggs to be crushed by the adult birds as they sat on their clutch. With the ban of DDT, the bird population has rebounded in significant numbers.

Other birds common in the islands are sea gulls, turkey vultures, Canada geese and ravens. On a couple of occasions, we’ve even seen Spotted owls on Sucia Island!

When hiking the islands, of course you’ll encounter a variety of song birds, including the Washington state bird, the goldfinch.

 

 

Non-native critters

Cruise Spieden Channel along the arid, savanna-like south shore of Spieden Island early in the day and you’re likely to see herds of exotic Mouflon Sheep, Fallow deer, and Sitka deer. In the ’70s and ’80s, these animals were released on the island to provide game for sport hunting. The venture eventually fizzled out but the animals remain. Mouflon sheep were also raised by settlers on nearby Stuart Island and though rarely seen due to their shy nature, herds still wander the island.

 

Red Foxes can be found on San Juan Island, mostly near Cattle Point. Foxes were introduced to the islands to help control the rabbit population.

Yaks (also known as the grunting ox) are the latest arrivals at Ericksen Farm on Stuart Island. Smaller and more docile than cattle, they are a welcome addition.

Snakes?

Snakes are few and far between in western Washington and the San Juan islands. On rare occasions, you might come across a garter snake like the one you see here. They are a small, shy non-venomous species. They feed mostly on bugs and slugs(!) This particular snake we found atop Suicide Bluff on Stuart Island when we disturbed his afternoon siesta. So anxious was he to avoid us that he hurled himself off the cliff! It seems Suicide Bluff is an apt name.

Last and perhaps least…..

The banana slug!

But wait; THERE’S MORE!!!

We’ve just shared a few of our favorite critters here. Come sailing with us and you’re sure to see many for yourself. We’ll see ya aboard!

 

 

 

Romance on the High Seas!

In Septermber, Captain Ron was called upon to do the honors for Travis and Jane. Both have long had a strong connection to the sea and to Sucia Island. So it was only natural that the idea of a sea-side wedding came up.

Jane had inherited the trimaran Dizzy Fish, from her dad, Tom when he passed on. One of Travis and Jane’s first sailing trips aboard Dizzy Fish had been to Ewing Cove on Sucia Island to scatter Tom’s ashes on the beach. Together they planned their nuptials and honeymoon aboard their boat. They wanted to keep things as simple and intimate as possible. Our mutual friend, Scott Renzi knew that I had performed many wedding ceremonies over the years and suggested they get in touch. Soon we began to hatch a plan. I put together a wedding ceremony with a nautical flair. We would need to sail Diminuendo up to Sucia so they could continue on their honeymoon. Mari could sign as a witness on the marriage licence, but we would need a second signature. So we decided to invite Travis’ mom, Lynn and Jane’s mom, Faith to join the fun. We had a plan!

The morning of September eighteenth, we set sail from Bellingham. We had a nice sail up to Echo Bay, where we anchored and awaited the arrival of the bride and groom. They sailed past us and into Ewing Cove, where they beached Dizzy Fish. Faith, Lynn, Mari and I donned our finest, clambered into the dinghy, Dimi and headed ashore for the event. Once ashore, we four gathered and waited for the bride and groom to emerge from their boat. Soon thereafter, the deed was done in the presence of both moms and Tom’s spirit.

After the ceremony, I ferried the moms back to Diminuendo and returned for Travis and Jane. We gathered for an elegant dinner , congratulatory toasts, the cutting of the cake, and signing the marriage license to make it all legal. Later in the evening, I took the newly weds back to Dizzy Fish for their wedding night.

 

In the morning, we set sail for Bellingham while Travis and Jane set out on their honeymoon cruise. May their voyage of life be long!

 

Spring is an especially good time to go visit one of the many gems of the San Juan Islands – the Yellow Island Preserve! Although the 11-acre island preserve can be visited year round, spring is when the island at is most glorious, carpeted with an array of colorful wildflowers. Truly a dream comes true for professional and aspiring photographer’s and artist’s alike!  

Before the arrival of Europeans, the island was used by the indigenous population for harvesting plant foods such as the roots of the camas flower. Intentional burning kept the tree population in check, helping to maintain the prairies needed for camas. Lewis and Elizabeth Dodd bought the island for $8000 in 1947, and sold it in 1979 to The Nature Conservancy, who administer it as a nature preserve.

The Nature Conservancy continues to maintain this island, protecting this beautiful and unique ecosystem. Ongoing ecological research on the island has focused on understanding the extent and rate of invasion of non-native species and developing strategies to restore native species. Results are shared with partner organizations and agencies to help maintain and restore grasslands in other regions of the Puget Sound lowlands; this includes periodic controlled burning of the grass to discourage larger vegetation from taking hold, and creating a flora unique among the lesser-developed   San Juan islands.

The native grasslands on Yellow Island are unique and an absence of grazing has preserved the diversity of native plants. More than 50 species of wildflowers, including broad leafed shooting star and hairy Indian paintbrush bloom on Yellow Island. The only cactus species native to western Washington, the brittle prickly pear cactus, also makes its home on the island. Bald eagles fly majestically above the island’s trees and harbor seals can be found on the rocks off the island’s west spit. Harlequin ducks and the black oystercatcher can be seen in the intertidal zone and mink and river otters are common on the island too. Further out in the nutrient-rich waters surrounding the island, marine mammals such as orca whales, harbor porpoises and sea lions can be seen swimming and feeding.

Visiting rules for the Island are very specific: no pets, no picnics, no camping or overnight moorage, no smoking, no water, no public bathrooms. Walking is encouraged, but only on the established trails. Some beaches close for seal rearing, so boaters need to be aware. The preserve is open daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., hours which are strictly enforced so that the wildlife gets a break from people. Groups larger than 6 should request special permission to visit the island. Please contact the Conservancy at (206) 343-4344 for written permission.

In 2018, Nature Conservatory naturalist Phil Green retired after spending 19 years as the solo steward on Yellow Island.

Hired in the summer of 2019, Matt Axling is the new steward on Yellow Island, but unlike the previous steward, Matt brings his family along! Matt is responsible for maintaining the unique Yellow Island prairie ecosystem, monitoring the Marine Protected Area around Yellow Island and welcoming visitors.  He draws on his background in environmental education and outdoor recreation to implement conservation and stewardship projects that are based on science and achieve tangible results.  

Before coming to the Nature Conservancy, Matt ran outdoor education and environment education programs for urban youth in Seattle and Albuquerque. He has led trips throughout the Pacific Northwest, American Southwest, Norway and Argentina.  He comes from a long line of islanders with multigenerational ties to Bainbridge Island and the San Juan Islands. In his free time, Matt enjoys kayaking, photography and traveling. 

Special thanks to Noelle van deer Straaten, Nature Conservatory Volunteer for providing most of this information contributed to this blog!

You never know what you might see while exploring the San Juan Islands. Sure, you’re likely to see fabulous sunsets, nature trails and the occasional pod of orca whales. You usually wouldn’t associate the islands with movie stars and music legends, but apparently they enjoy the islands just as much as everyone else!

We’d just hunkered down in Echo Bay on Sucia Island when Ron recognized a very distinctive historic wooden sailing yacht in the harbor. I suppose only a true fan such as Ron would recognize the WN Ragland, a 105 year old, 101-foot Baltic trading vessel, as being owned by the one and only NEIL YOUNG. Just at sunset, with the blood moon soon to rise in the east, we were on our way back from checking our crab pot out in the bay. Glancing over at the Ragland we saw a group of people gathered at the stern of the ship. Upon returning to our sailboat, curiosity got the best of me so I trained my binoculars over to their vessel. What I saw was unmistakably a woman in a white dress standing with a man before what could only be described as an officiant. Moments later, they embraced and a cascade of petals showered over the couple.

We fired off a few fuzzy photos, feeling strangely paparazzi-ish. We concluded that we had probably been the only ones to witness the wedding ceremony of the legendary Neil Young and actress Daryl Hannah.

 

We decided that out of respect for the artists and what was obviously a very intimate ceremony, we would not try to publicize what we had witnessed. Over the next few days and weeks, we occasionally skimmed the gossip headlines, but not a peep about the wedding! Finally last Monday we finally started reading headlines “Neil Young and Daryl Hannah reportedly marry.” Only a few of the articles mentioned that they “also got married on Young’s yacht somewhere near the San Juan Islands.” Now that the couple has gone public (and confirmed what we saw) we felt that it was appropriate to share what we had observed. As Neil Young is Ron’s all-time favorite artist, it is all the more exciting to realize that aside from the wedding party themselves, we were probably the only people in the world to witness their nuptials against the striking backdrop of the beautiful San Juan Islands we call home!

Click the link below to hear Ron’s KISM radio podcast!

Neil Young got married in the San Juans

Working Hard to Enhance your San Juan Islands Sailing Experience!

We’ve added  new layer of luxury to Diminuendo for your sleeping comfort. Imagine waking to the smell of freshly brewing coffee. And taking the time to enjoy a morning cup in the comfort and privacy of your own spacious cabin! Because your comfort is our goal, we continuously strive to add new upgrades and innovations to Diminuendo to enhance your overall charter experience. This year we are pleased to announce the addition of custom-cut 7 inch latex mattresses in each of our aft cabins, topped off with luxurious three-inch jell memory foam toppers.  All combined, we feel this will provide a level of comfort found in the finest hotels – or maybe as nice as your bed back home. We’ve also spruced up the cabins this year with new comforters, sheets, and towels, introducing an all new look in jewel tones of gold and navy.

We also had the mast un-stepped over the winter – a process in which the mast is removed with a crane so Ron could install a new wind vane, anemometer, LED anchor light, and upgrades to the wiring.

Last but certainly not least, Diminuendo has been outfitted with a brand new suit of sails (main and genoa) and new running rigging (lines). We put the new sails and rigging to the test on our first charter of the season in March. Captain Ron’s grin would indicate that all meet with his seal of approval!

There are still some great dates open on our calendar, so you’re invited to come and check out the improvements for yourself. We’ll see you aboard!